Fitting Your Body Lift


First job which helps a lot is to clean the underside of your vehicle especially around each of the body mount points.
Next go around and make a note of any parts that might not accept the lift and those that you think should be ok

The top radiator hose and the two pipes for the heater matrix will usually accept a 2" lift, however anything bigger and you'll have to lengthen the heater matrix hose. Over a 2" lift if you drop the radiator then the top hose will not need extending, but it will if you use an electric fan, the bottom hose might need shortening as well.

The fan and bottom radiator outlet are very often close to each other but often there is just enough room to allow a 2" lift, but anything bigger and you'll either have to drop the radiator or fit an electric fan

All the brake pipes/lines on most 4x4s usually have a coil as they go from body to chassis just needing teasing out, and will accommodate lifts up to 115mm at least

On lift kits over 2"

Any hoses that run from the body to the engine or chassis are likely to have to be lengthened, examples are: on the power steering running from the cooler to the steering box, the air intake hose, the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump to the servo, the hose to the clutch slave cylinder (on manuals) and also the fuel tank filler and breather hoses, also back there the fuel lines are sometimes bolted to the body as are the mudflaps.

The earth bonding between the chassis and the body may have to be lengthened. Finally the steering should adjust with out a problem for the kits we sell unless the kit has been described as needing a steering extension.


The fitting of the the kit is quite easy the tools you will require are as follows:

  • 10mm - 19mm socket set
  • 10mm - 19mm spanner set
  • Extra extensions for the socket set (some of the bolts are difficult to access)
  • A 2 tonne jack (I prefer a bottle jack but it is possible to use a trolly jack)
  • You may want to use a piece of wood to use as a load spreader

Finding the body mount bolts:

underneath inside

Lefthand picture shows a mounting point from underneath, while the righthand picture shows a typical access point inside the cab/body.
It is probably best to find each mounting point underneath first and then trace it upwards to find the access point inside the vehicle body.

Proceed as follows:

Undo all the bolts and fittings that will not adjust to the lift (see previous section), then undo all the body mount bolts - do not remove bolts at this stage.

Now you are ready for lifting the body, do one side at a time! Position the jack under the step in the floor of the body (just in front of the rear wheel arch) place your piece of wood between the jack and the body and take the weight of the body off the body mounts. Now remove the bolts on the side you are working on and carefully jack the body up until you reach the correct height to insert the spacers, carefully teasing out the coil on the brake line(s) as you go. Insert the new bolts (some may have to go up through the mounts - this does not matter as the new nuts are nylocs). Lower the jack so the weight is taken on the bodymounts and new spacers. put the new nuts on the bolts but do not tighten.

Repeat for the other side then tighten all the bolts. Now is the time to go around and check all the points listed in the previous section and make sure they are still intact or to lengthen the necessary hoses.

To fit the transfer lever extension remove the knob screw the extension to the transfer lever and replace the knob.

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