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Xpajun Off-road Products

Fitting Your Body Lift Kit


First job which helps a lot is to clean the underside of your vehicle especially around each of the body mount points.
Next go around and make a note of any parts that might not accept the lift and those that you think should be ok

The top radiator hose (below left) and the two pipes for the heater matrix (below right) will accept a 2" lift, however anything bigger and you'll have to lengthen the heater matrix hose. Over a 2" lift if you drop the radiator then the top hose will not need extending, but will if you use an electric fan.

LWB 2" lift kit

The fan and bottom radiator outlet - it looks pretty close here but there is in fact a 2" - 50mm gap there, just enough room for a 2" lift but anything bigger and you'll either have to drop the radiator or fit an electric fan

LWB 2" lift kit LWB 2" lift kit

All the brake pipes/lines have this coil (right) as they go from body to chassis just needing teasing out, and will accommodate lifts up to 115mm at least

LWB 2" lift kit
LWB 2" lift kit

This is the air intake hose which will have to be lengthened for a lift over 2"

Another pipe that'll need lengthening on lifts over 2" is this one (right) on the power steering running from the cooler to the steering box.

LWB 2" lift kit

Other pipes to check out on the bigger lifts are the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump on the alternator and also the fuel tank filler pipe, also back there the fuel lines are sometimes bolted to the body - this bolt has to be removed. Finally the hose to the clutch slave cylinder is borderline and probably won't have to be lengthened unless you are fitting a 115mm lift (Mk2 only). The steering should adjust upto a 115mm lift with out a problem but the earth bonding to the chassis may have to be lengthened (2"+ lifts only).


The fitting of the the kit is quite easy the tools you will require are as follows:

  • 14mm socket and spanner (this to undo the existing bolts - both body and bumper)

  • 17mm socket and spanner (this to do up the new bolts - both body and bumper)

  • 12 and 10mm sockets

  • A 2 tonne jack (I prefer a bottle jack but it is possible to use a trolly jack)

  • You may want to use a piece of wood to use as a load spreader

Proceed as follows:

Undo all the bolts and fittings that will not adjust to the lift (see previous section), then undo all the body mount bolts - do not remove bolts at this stage.

Now you are ready for lifting the body, do one side at a time! Position the jack under the step in the floor of the body (just in front of the rear wheel arch) place your piece of wood between the jack and the body and take the weight of the body off the body mounts. Now remove the bolts on the side you are working on and carefully jack the body up until you reach the desired height to insert the spacers, carefully teasing out the coil on the brake line(s) as you go. Insert the new bolts (some may have to go up through the mounts - this does not matter as the new nuts are nylocs). Lower the jack so the weight is taken on the bodymounts and new spacers. put the new nuts on the bolts but do not tighten.

Repeat for the other side then tighten all the bolts. Now is the time to go around and check all the points listed in the previous section and make sure they are still intact or to lengthen the necessary hoses.

To fit the transfer lever extension remove the knob screw the extension to the transfer lever and replace the knob.

Finding the body mount bolts:

LWB 2" lift kit LWB 2" lift kit LWB 2" lift kit LWB 2" lift kit LWB 2" lift kit

This is the front one - make sure you retape over this hole(above)

These ones are on the floor of the body - one on the SWB and 3 on the LWB

This one is under the front of the rear seat in behind the upright of the floor panel

This final one is inside the rear light cluster on the Mk1

Or under this cover on the Mk2

LWB 2" lift kit LWB 2" lift kit LWB 2" lift kit LWB 2" lift kit

In addition, on the SWB Mk1, there are two more under the rear bumper